Connecting 4 Strand Paracord Braid with Core and Buckle.

When you’re ready to go beyond the traditional one or two strand wristband, this is a great guide to making a 4 Strand Paracord Braid with Core and Clasp. #ParacordBraceletHQConnecting 4 Yarn Paracord Braids with One Core and Buckle.
This bracelet is made with 550 paracord. I swallowed the working cables to give them a more flat, feminine look and feel. However, it works the same way without cutting the cable. The middle core is uncut. I found that doing so gives the braid a more rounded appearance.
Formula (wrist size in inches) / (.17) for the cord required. It will give you the measurement in inches. Sorry, metrics. For example, if you’re making one for a 6.5 wrist, then you’ll get 6.5 / .17 = 38.23. Therefore, you will need a little more than 38 inches for “both” cables. If you use 4 colors, you will need 19 inches of both colors. Fused together, this will give you 38 inches. Yes I know. I’m a genius. Since I’ve used 550 lanyards, if you’re using 450, micro lanyards, or even 650 and above, this formula might be a bit off.
Binding works best on some kind of paracord pointer, but it is not necessary. The jig allows you to hold the core tight when knitting the cable.
I’ve tried to add enough pictures to see each step, but if there is any confusion, feel free to comment and ask questions.
Teacher Notes
Teachers! Did you use this in class? Add a Teacher Note to share how it’s included in your lesson.
Step 1:
Step # 1: Use fuse cables together. Don’t worry about how ugly the connection looks. You’il keep it that night.
Step 2:
Step # 2: Connect a knot node to the buckle. If you do not use the buckle, you can only connect the link using the loop method
Step 3:
Step # 3A: Loosen the connection knot and route the cables with the fused part between them. This will hide the ugliness.
Step 4:
Step # 3B: Another angle of the cords passing through the port
Step 5:
Step # 4: Tighten the connection so that it goes down the fused wires.
Step 6:
Step 5: You can start with both sides. I started with the upper left cord. Pull this cord underneath the core, between the other two cords and downwards as in the illustration.
Step 7:
Step # 6: Pull down firmly
Step 8:
Step 7: Do the same on the other side, starting from the top right cord. Under the core, between the two wires and down.
Step 9:
Step # 8: Pull firmly. Rinse and repeat until the desired length is reached. In my case, my core is already tied to a buckle on the other end. I have a picture of that.
Step 10:
Step 9: The bracelet should look like this
Step 11:
Step 10: Here you can see my core cables go through the top of the buckle and sing underneath.
Step 1/2:
Step # 11A: When it comes to an end, take the last two cords you knit and just tie them under the bracelet. The cord is threaded, so the knot will not be bulky there.
Step 13:
Step # 11B: This is under my bracelet.
Hey, I love the look of this weave! I’m trying to change the method a bit, so I can lift a dog on a leash. How do you suggest I make a looped loop handle without knitting?
In some other lessons, they don’t have a core or something, you need to tie your knitting yarns to a piece you knit for 5 or 6 rows (back knit?).
Hello there. Thank you for your interest. By having the kernel, you are allowed some more opportunities to do some things. In this case, it will definitely help with the loop. Before weave, I would tie the core again and boil it with it. Don’t worry about ugliness because the braid will hide it.
Weave the hemostats around the loop until it is gathered around itself (that is, follow the core before it can go any further. As the end approaches, the cord will harden a bit harder). Of course, this is just my personal suggestion.
I’m sorry if I confuse more. I promise you the right way in my head. lol. Let me know if you have any other questions, or if you need a video or picture tutorial to explain what I’ve just raised.
This is exactly what I’m looking for on a leash I want to stay and do. I know this answer is 3 years old, but if you still have tutorials for adding loops to the handle, please share? Thanks.
Besides, how much cords do I need if I do this in 2 colors?
Hi, I really love your tutorial and I plan to tie the cord around the hookah hose, but I have a question. Does your formula work on any kernel, or should I count by kernel diameter? Your core is 2 paracord diesels (approx. 8mm), but the diameter of my rubber hose is about 1.5 cm.
Hey. Thanks for your question. Formula 2 is set for the paracord array. However, if you have a spare cable, simply connect a few inches / cm on the hooka and mark the end of each cable. Then untie and measure how much you use. This will give you an estimate of how much you will need for the entire hooka. Happy binding
Wow. This looks great. I’m glad I could help. This is a versatile node that can connect to almost anything. Flashlights, hammers, sunglasses, walking sticks and so on. I Degreening. It also works for bracelets and necklaces. You will still want to leave individual (+/- 30lb test) white nylon ropes in the cable. Let me know if you have any further questions and happy ties.
First off, this is a great tutorial and beautiful weaving. So I want to check something with you … I’m thinking of wrapping my phone charger like this. I want to use four colors and the cable is 36 “. I need about 212 ‘or about 106’ four pieces for your” both “cables with your formula. Is that correct?
Thanks for your trust. Yeah, 106 must be right. Also, if you come down to the end and you’re only one or two or two stuck, you can always wrap your fist around the cord, squeeze it all the way down like you’re holding a baseball bat. This loosens the node slightly, but it will not be noticed. Happy mounts
Bringing macromeles of the 20th century here and now

I have to admit that until recently, the list of things I want to hang on my macrame walls will be at the end – when I grew up, it brought back memories of the moldy brown pieces I found in dozens of thrift stores. A particular macrame find – an owl made of twine – comes to mind. However, if you take the time to them, as proof that the flavors and trends have become a complete cycle (I’m betting the owl gets a nice penny in some old vintage boutiques right now) I’ve found myself with pleasure recently (not like that) Art.

Finally my example – my friend Jess recently bought the most beautiful wall hanging in Etsy (as you can see below) and it is full of neons to add a modern cool touch. After seeing this, I was desperate to know more about how these pieces were created – and I was very happy when Himo Art May agreed to stop running out. May did a great job of bringing the macro of the 20th century here and now (the last macromeles became perfect for me), and I was delighted that she decided to look at it – it turned out to be quite complicated – the process. It’s time to Improve your knotting skills, kids!

Things that you need:

  • Rope
  • Wooden Dowel
  • Wooden Breads
  • Paint Brush
  • Scissors
  • Masking Tape
  • Paint

 

1

It can attach dowels to the wall – it uses a removable hook, because it’s a great way to not make holes in the wall.

2

It can cut the rope into 14 x 4 yard pieces and 2 x 5 yard pieces. It then begins tying the rope to the head nodes of the larvae and compiling the dowel with 5 yard pieces (one at each end) into a book.

3

The rest can continue with ropes.

4

Then it makes double half axle knot.

5

And it goes on and on.

6

By the end, May begins tying them diagonally across the ropes.

7

You can add wooden beads here and here before connecting the nodes.

8

Then each starts to connect the switch nodes using 4 ropes.

9

Can connect 8 of them.

10

It then adds the node (as before) to the double half node.

11

And he brings them crosswise.

12

You can add more beads and bring the knots to the end.

13

It can then cut the ends of the rope.

14

Covers a portion of the dowel ends to paint and add a hint of neon (a woman from my own heart!)

15

Finally, he adds a watermelon pop to the end of the rope.

Great!

And there, hung a magnificent macrame wall. I can appreciate the work that goes into these pieces – not a craft for withered or ham!