Crochet Torn Jeans Patch Tutorial with Pictures Crochet Torn Jeans Patch Tutorial with Pictures
Okay, so now I’m desperate enough to get angry with winter! I’m already dreaming of wearing spring clothes, warm wool and jeans. All my occasional pairs of torn jeans always come out in the spring, they’re too cold for winter.
Now, I’m not sure if this is happening to you, but a few years ago the disaster began. With my fave knee torn in perfect sizes, I decided to split the right leg down in the ripped jeans !!!! When I remembered a light bulb, I turned to the can and decided to hide them with crochet. Then I didn’t know how to get out, but I had nothing to lose. I stitched what I could do by leaving the worn stitch roughly visible outside and I started to hang over the range. The result was much better than I expected, they asked LOADS how I did it, so when the stitches finally started to pull, I decided to do a blog post.
You will need:
Jeans with ripped holes of any size!
4-ply or sports-weight cotton (will run in min but results are lower)
ch = chain
dc = double crochet (US single crochet)
tr = treble crochet (US double crcohet)
ss = slip stitch
Initially, using your needle and the length of the blanket you choose forms a basis for stitching around your torn hole.
When sewing from the beginning of the blanket to the end, fix the thread, pour.
Around dc’d, ch3 up, 2 (or optionally 3) sts, skip 3 tr (just like a grandmother’s square) in the next step, skip ch3, 2 sts, 3tr, repeat it. ss to the top of your ch3 to join.
ch3, you’ll want to close the hole for the next round. Work 1 or 2 en in each ch 3 range. You may not have to chain between en sts, this really depends on the size of your hole. In this round, I chained the sts only a few times, and after the remaining time, I jumped to the next ch3 space.
The next round is about putting the hole together, don’t make the chain between the sts on that round. Try reducing your stitches between gaps. This place is here and here you may have to play a little treble giggling a bit, don’t worry to be clean, it looks better untidy x
Now to bring everything closer, move ch2, ss tr’s, ch2, ss to another area along the hole, repeat several more times until you are satisfied with the result. throw and weaving at the end.
you want the patch to lie flat and not to hit the sides. You may need to have a little game around to get the effect you want. I hope you found this helpful.
I wanted to do a tutorial and finally decided on this little macrame bracelet. It is based on the knotted bracelets you see in tourist shops. It is very easy to do and you can design it to suit your style, depending on the beads and beads you choose. They also offer great gifts due to the adjustable length of the sliding buckle.
As long as the bead holes are large enough to accommodate two cords, almost any type of cords and cords work. Only one node is used along a simple square node. The sliding buckle is as simple as finishing, and the whole project can do what you want in part of American Idol or the TV.
You’ll need a few simple things:
- 4 meter cable (I used C-Lon Tex 400 for this demo)
- 8 or more beads depending on the length of the bracelet
- 2 small beads for rockers
- 3 straight pins
- Needle tip for finishing needle (has round ballpoint tip)
- Needle Tip Jewelry Pliers (Optional)
1)Cut the 2-piece strap up to 24,, hold it together and clip about 8 clipboard boards from one end. These will be fill cables. I use a shade of lavender for my stuffing cords.
Cut a piece of cord about 2 meters long. This knot will become ropes. Normally I use the same color cable for both fill and knot cords, but for this demo only, I use a dark purple shade for knot cords. Locate the center of the knot cord, slide it under the filler cables and secure it to the foamcore panel. We will now start to work with square knots with knot cords on the filler cables.
2) I use the right hand, so I usually start with the cable on the right side of the filler cables. Place the fill cords horizontally on the right to form a ring on the right. Take the cable on the left and place it on the horizontal cable, then lift it up under the cables and with the ring on the right. Pull out both knot cables and tighten. This is 1/2 of the square node.
3) Repeat step 2, but take the left cord and place it horizontally on the filler cables that form a loop on the left. Take the right cord and place it on the horizontal cord, then turn it under all the cables and top to left. Pull out both knot cables and tighten. You just made a full-frame knot.
4) After each 3 to 5 square knots, continue to make square knots and place a bead on the filler cables. The number of nodes depends on the size of the cord, the size of the beads, and the fact that many nodes look nice to you. Continue this pattern to the desired length. Note that the sliding clamp will add approximately ″ add.
When you’re done, thread a knot of thread into your needle and sew it to the center as far as possible. If you have problems, use a pair of jewelery pliers to pull your needle. If you find that your knots are too tight and you cannot thread the entire cord, remove the 3-ply cord and sew each thread separately. After properly sewing both knot cables, cut off any excess.
5) Then we make the buckle. Circle your work and hold it together by loosely tying it with a small amount of cord close to both sides of the nodes (I used orange). Foamcore pin bracelet.
Cut a strap about 12 ″ in length. Just like you did in step 1, slide this cord under the four cords and make square knots on all four cords for the 1/2 cord. Finish ends just like you would with a bracelet. When sewing these tips, avoid putting needles into the cords inserted into the needle.
6) Remove these temporary lanyard bits. There are 2 loose cables protruding from both ends of the buckle section. Hold 2 cords together and form a slip knot, place a bead on both cords, then create another slip knot to hold it in place. Cut the excess. Run and show everyone you know.