How to Enter Your Own Home?

Make a warm and welcoming home with these tips! Click to make this DIY eucalyptus framed mirror. How to Enter Your Own Home?
If you have friends and family during Christmas, you want to warmly invite your home. I plan to have a little Christmas party in my studio (if I get it organized again!) And it will be hard work to make it comfortable and welcoming. The area is nice, but these large windows allow a cold draft.
I want to make him warm and welcoming, so I’m using the entrance because it’s the first thing anyone can see! I don’t have much free time for this to happen, but focusing on this area will hopefully get everyone into the mood as soon as they enter the door.
We’re having a very busy time for all of us, so that it can surprise you with all the decorations. Some simple ideas I use to give my guests a warm welcome that you can easily try in your own home.
Candles
First impressions are everything and counts for all the senses. Illuminating the scented candles at the entrance of your home, guests will feel at home immediately. It especially helps when they arrive as cute winter forest creatures! (These are currently on sale. So take it away!)
Once you’re in the cold, nothing can invite those lush, green plants. It reminds us of warmer times. I love adding eucalyptus branches to almost everything. I leaned the branches against the wall and added some to the wall around the mirror. It also makes a great cloche fill as part of the highlight and if others fail, find and fill a basket.
And of course, no Christmas party can be completed without a wreath. This boxwood-lit wreath allows our hearts to sing all Christmas songs!
Lighting
Ideally you want to keep the lighting soft and inviting. Fairy lights are a universal sign for Christmas and are expected (at least by me) for any festive party. The more, the better! I like bright white LEDs that seem to blink everywhere you place them, but it’s also nice that warmer lights add more glare, especially when these diamonds go into geometric cages.
Welcome Drinks
After going to the cold to travel to your party, immediately take their value with a warm warm wine as soon as they enter the door. I know this is all I need! In fact, when I arrived, I went to a friends party where he kept warm wine in his slow pot to serve. Definitely the best welcome to a winter party.
Keep the wine warm in these copper Moscow Mule cups. You can even create a warm wine station and let guests add fruit and spices to their drinks!
How houseplant is stored again
Spring and garden calls, but there is a final task for the indoor gardener.

Re-popular houseplants must be re-stored every two years to remain strong and healthy.

Many of these plants grow naturally on the gloomy ground of the rain forest, and although they have adapted to a large number of root rivalries, the limits of a pot will eventually become very restrictive. Some common house plants want to be attached to a small flowerpot – clivas, scheffleras, lilies of peace and ficus – but they will need to be stored again over time.

In addition to dealing with root congestion, plants that are too long in a pot sit on compacted and exhausted soil and may have a build-up of harmful fertilizer salts.

[I was a serial houseplant killer until I stopped making these five mistakes.]

How do you know if a plant needs reproduction? Turn the pot upside down: The most obvious sign of a plant attached to the pot is that the roots grow through the drainage holes. Hold the lower stem of the plant firmly and pull out the container. If you see a pale thick pale root, it’s time to take action. If the pot doesn’t slip, it’s probably held by cramped roots. If the pot is plastic, you can cut the container – I use pruners, but watch out for your fingers. If it is clay, you may need to break it with a hammer.

Nathan Roehrich, Greenhouse Production Manager at Brookside Gardens, calls a cordyline from a six-inch to eight-inch container. (Montgomery Parks)
Another sign of the problem is that the plant always looks thirsty – despite hardworking irrigation – it fades. This is because the ratio of roots to soil increases too much. The same problem can also lead to a significant decrease in plant viability.

Irrigate the plant well the day before re-precipitation to reduce ordeal stress and make the roots more workable.

After removing the plant from the pot, you have to bring the roots to a more natural state. The degree of effort depends on overcrowding levels. I asked Nate Roehrich, the greenhouse production manager at Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, how he did this. We went again to look for a plant that was begging for hiding and trying to find a painful cordid in a gallon container.

When we took the job, I realized that the roots were softer than me. This was because a week ago, I had to buy a big knife in the most cramped root system I’d ever seen – in the inner courtyard that I bought just a month ago. This leads to another point: Just because a houseplant is new to you does not mean you are hiding happily. Growing season late or in winter, houseplants spent months to grow thick roots. Buy them – especially if they are on sale – but be prepared to prepare them for the coming season.

The thinner the roots, the more gentle you should be. One way of working them loosely with minimum damage is to wash the old soil, preferably with ice, not with ice.

Thin but pointed roots, cut them with scissors. If they are thick and compressed, you can use a knife to draw the edges. For truly cramped roots such as my palms, you can use a sharp knife or pruning saw to lift the bottom inch or so, and then use a three-way soil cultivator to free the roots from each other and old soil.

Roehrich didn’t use anything other than his hands on cordyline. As a rule, it does not remove more than a quarter of the root mass during storage.

A root pruned plant can be brought back to the same pot, but it is better to give it a slightly larger nest – a pot with one or two inches more on top. The larger one carries the risk of root rot due to increased soil moisture. Some pots are placed in a decorative exterior or cache pot, and some have an integrated plate on the bottom, but in any case the new pot must be emptied.

There is a confusing range of soil and compost products for sale, but for most houseplants you want to store the soil (or the pot mix). This is typically a peat-based mixture illuminated with perlite. Some gardeners think the soil is still prone to the pond and they want to add additional perlite. Orchids and succulents need their own special blends.

Keep the plant at the same soil level as before – you are deeper and at risk of crown decay – but for efficient watering the soil line must be under the pot mouth.

When filling fresh soil with another, keep the plant at the right level with one hand. Roehrich then touches the pot several times to get rid of any air pocket. I love that the plant is watered and then reassembled as necessary to encourage the soil to sink.

After the last watering, allow the plant to rest – away from direct sunlight, even if it is a bright plant. Water again when the soil feels dry. Fertilization for a while; wait until you see a new growth that can last for two to four weeks.

Roehrich said that the plant will first put its energy into repairing its roots before turning the energy into initial growth.

After the plant is re-potted, shape the leaves by removing dead, diseased or damaged leaves.

The project creates a lot of confusion. If your luxurious, fully submerged flowerpot is being renovated, it can be served on a light day or indoors in a large plastic tub on the patio or balcony. A storage container will do the trick.

Revitalizing a plant in this way also has a way to restore the spirits of the indoor gardener.