MARINA WRAP | Noowul Designs

MARINA WRAP | Noowul DesignsMARINA WRAP
Marina Wrap is a light and airy free crochet wrap pattern that uses only one Ball Red Heart ball. A Wrap Rainbow Yarn. The lacy stitches and the soft crescent shape of this shawl show the yarn beautifully!
This pattern is fully graphed. Scroll to the bottom of this page to view the charts.
This was my first time working with Red Heart. It is a super soft and excellent covering acrylic / cotton blend that wraps with just one ball. The colors move in a beautiful gradient and create a gorgeous fabric that you want to wear all year round. I enjoyed working with this yarn, I am planning my next design already!
Fine-weight yarn and lace stitches make this wrap perfect for a spring or summer accessory. Or close it as a scarf to get a brightly colored spot on a gloomy winter day. It will certainly light things up!
Line 2: Skip first stitch, SL ST at the next 2 dc, SC to the next DC, * CH 5, SC at the next chain space, repeat from CH5, SC, * to the last shell at the third DC of the next shell. (37 sc and 36 chain clearance)
Line 3: Skip first stitch, SL to next 2 chains, ST to chain, SC to next chain, next sc shell, next to chain gap SC, * CH 5, next to chain gap SC, next sc shell, next to chain gap SC, * Repeat with to the last chain interval. (18 rounds and 17 shackles)
Refer to the second table at the end of this shipment for visual assistance of next stitch placement.
Line 23: CH 1, 3 SC in the same area, running along the line ends: 3 SC placed at the end of each line ‘corner‘ (up to the end of line 21) at equal intervals; In the first stitch of line 21, SC, * 5 chain spacing SC, in the next stitch SC, repeat * along line 21, repeat along line 21: 3 SC at the end of each line; Turn 3 SC, at the last stitch of the base chain. (side 1 = 66 sc, side 2 = 97 sc, side 3 = 66 sc; total 229 sc)
Bank 39: CH 2, [DC, CH2, DC] at the first stitch, DC at the next stitch, SC at the next stitch, SL ST in the chain stitch, * SC at the next stitch, DC at the next 2 stitches, 2 DC input next stitch, CH 2, 2 next repeat between * and * until DC in the sewing, DC in the next 2 stitches, SC in the next stitch, SL ST in the chain gap, 3 dc stitches, SC in the next stitch, DC in the next stitch, sew in the probe [DC, CH 2, DC]. Secure. (493 stitches and 46 chain areas)
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I wanted to do a tutorial and finally decided on this little macrame bracelet. It is based on the knotted bracelets you see in tourist shops. It is very easy to do and you can design it to suit your style, depending on the beads and beads you choose. They also offer great gifts due to the adjustable length of the sliding buckle.

As long as the bead holes are large enough to accommodate two cords, almost any type of cords and cords work. Only one node is used along a simple square node. The sliding buckle is as simple as finishing, and the whole project can do what you want in part of American Idol or the TV.

You’ll need a few simple things:

  • 4 meter cable (I used C-Lon Tex 400 for this demo)
  • 8 or more beads depending on the length of the bracelet
  • 2 small beads for rockers
  • 3 straight pins
  • scissors
  • Needle tip for finishing needle (has round ballpoint tip)
  • Needle Tip Jewelry Pliers (Optional)
Instructions:

1)Cut the 2-piece strap up to 24,, hold it together and clip about 8 clipboard boards from one end. These will be fill cables. I use a shade of lavender for my stuffing cords.

Cut a piece of cord about 2 meters long. This knot will become ropes. Normally I use the same color cable for both fill and knot cords, but for this demo only, I use a dark purple shade for knot cords. Locate the center of the knot cord, slide it under the filler cables and secure it to the foamcore panel. We will now start to work with square knots with knot cords on the filler cables.

2) I use the right hand, so I usually start with the cable on the right side of the filler cables. Place the fill cords horizontally on the right to form a ring on the right. Take the cable on the left and place it on the horizontal cable, then lift it up under the cables and with the ring on the right. Pull out both knot cables and tighten. This is 1/2 of the square node.

3) Repeat step 2, but take the left cord and place it horizontally on the filler cables that form a loop on the left. Take the right cord and place it on the horizontal cord, then turn it under all the cables and top to left. Pull out both knot cables and tighten. You just made a full-frame knot.

4) After each 3 to 5 square knots, continue to make square knots and place a bead on the filler cables. The number of nodes depends on the size of the cord, the size of the beads, and the fact that many nodes look nice to you. Continue this pattern to the desired length. Note that the sliding clamp will add approximately ″ add.

When you’re done, thread a knot of thread into your needle and sew it to the center as far as possible. If you have problems, use a pair of jewelery pliers to pull your needle. If you find that your knots are too tight and you cannot thread the entire cord, remove the 3-ply cord and sew each thread separately. After properly sewing both knot cables, cut off any excess.

5) Then we make the buckle. Circle your work and hold it together by loosely tying it with a small amount of cord close to both sides of the nodes (I used orange). Foamcore pin bracelet.

Cut a strap about 12 ″ in length. Just like you did in step 1, slide this cord under the four cords and make square knots on all four cords for the 1/2 cord. Finish ends just like you would with a bracelet. When sewing these tips, avoid putting needles into the cords inserted into the needle.

6) Remove these temporary lanyard bits. There are 2 loose cables protruding from both ends of the buckle section. Hold 2 cords together and form a slip knot, place a bead on both cords, then create another slip knot to hold it in place. Cut the excess. Run and show everyone you know.