Celery Baked Chicken with Lemon Rice and KaleMenu
When it’s time to roast a chicken, I tend to go in one of two ways, such as Zuni or Thomas Keller, depending on how early I can put my actions together. (You shouldn’t be surprised when I find out that I’m by default on Keller, as it is my gathering gesture.) Both are perfect recipes that give a humid, juicy bird with minimal effort. I can appreciate. However, another reason for frying in this way is that it does not require pre-cutting the bird. Cutting anything in my kitchen often suffers from too much clenching and grinding of teeth, because it rarely results in good results. Not who stopped me. For a while, I thought poultry shears would be my salvation, but my chicken managed to look more like a crime scene than usual. I tried the Cleaver course, but things still went wrong.
Then, earlier this year, I was invited to take a cooking course at the Cookery Education Institute (ICE) in exchange for a blog post on their site. How can I refuse, especially in my (old) office building? I looked at the courses, researched the dessert place on the Venn diagram, which was interesting, useful and suitable for the program. I found it on a course at Sustainable Meats, taught by Chef Erica Wides with a wicked sense of humor and clever behavior. There were maybe 10 people in the class, all there for different reasons – their health, a cleaner environment and animal welfare concerns, just a few. We prepared a meat dinner from scratch, but the most useful thing I learned that night was throwing a chicken without tearing it apart. I’ve used this method over and over, and I still don’t know why it’s so easy for me, but it is. I think the evidence is in the chicken pudding.
What you do is sit the chicken in your ass and cut one side of the spine, turn it over and cut the other. Then place the chicken by cutting and use your knife to cut a vertical slit from the upper middle of the breastbone. Turn it upside down and press the heel of your hand against the sternum to break the rib cage. Turn it over again, push your fingers over the sides of the breastbone to pull it out of the cartilage and pull it out. Now he throws a little muscle, I won’t lie, but the results are star-shaped.
In addition to a new Spatchcocking facility, we also learned something about Chef Erica’s Heritage Let Real’s Let Reals ”podcast on Heritage Radio Network. This is the sad subject of “food” and a clear and funny talk about how to return to eating real food rather than a pitiful approach. I cannot recommend it highly enough. I was already on board, so I was reinforcing my values, but it’s nice to hear that I’m not the only borderline-orthoxic around.
But let’s go back to that chicken. This roast spatcock with lemon chicken came from the January 2013 issue of Martha Stewart Living. It’s a little more work than salting a chicken and throwing it into a hot oven, but if you have the time, it’s worth it. Shallots and lemon slices are caramelized in a pan in chicken broth, and if this is possible, it is better than the chicken itself. I added a kolkannon-ish mashup – sauteed cabbage puree with celery root, garlic and red pepper flakes with some herb-fed butter, just sweet.
If you’re looking for a Christmas gift for that special food lover in your life (hey, I just finished shopping yesterday, so don’t decide here), an entertainment course at ICE could be just right. I know I’d be thrilled to get a gift like this.
Skin, crispy skin. Unfortunately, my oven is so pitiful that if its life depends on it, it can’t turn a bird into a crisp. And unfortunately, my budget means that the life of the oven does not depend on it. Shit oven is here to stay. Can I come for some chicken?
I use my husband’s propane plumbers’ flashlight to cook cereals coming out of the oven, and also if they’re left under the broiler for a few minutes. We are retired and live most of the year in Mexico, where most ovens and ovens do not have a chick, and even after a few years the best can drop to 350 or 500 degrees.
I bought one especially for the kitchen.
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How houseplant is stored again
Spring and garden calls, but there is a final task for the indoor gardener.
Re-popular houseplants must be re-stored every two years to remain strong and healthy.
Many of these plants grow naturally on the gloomy ground of the rain forest, and although they have adapted to a large number of root rivalries, the limits of a pot will eventually become very restrictive. Some common house plants want to be attached to a small flowerpot – clivas, scheffleras, lilies of peace and ficus – but they will need to be stored again over time.
In addition to dealing with root congestion, plants that are too long in a pot sit on compacted and exhausted soil and may have a build-up of harmful fertilizer salts.
[I was a serial houseplant killer until I stopped making these five mistakes.]
How do you know if a plant needs reproduction? Turn the pot upside down: The most obvious sign of a plant attached to the pot is that the roots grow through the drainage holes. Hold the lower stem of the plant firmly and pull out the container. If you see a pale thick pale root, it’s time to take action. If the pot doesn’t slip, it’s probably held by cramped roots. If the pot is plastic, you can cut the container – I use pruners, but watch out for your fingers. If it is clay, you may need to break it with a hammer.
Nathan Roehrich, Greenhouse Production Manager at Brookside Gardens, calls a cordyline from a six-inch to eight-inch container. (Montgomery Parks)
Another sign of the problem is that the plant always looks thirsty – despite hardworking irrigation – it fades. This is because the ratio of roots to soil increases too much. The same problem can also lead to a significant decrease in plant viability.
Irrigate the plant well the day before re-precipitation to reduce ordeal stress and make the roots more workable.
After removing the plant from the pot, you have to bring the roots to a more natural state. The degree of effort depends on overcrowding levels. I asked Nate Roehrich, the greenhouse production manager at Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, how he did this. We went again to look for a plant that was begging for hiding and trying to find a painful cordid in a gallon container.
When we took the job, I realized that the roots were softer than me. This was because a week ago, I had to buy a big knife in the most cramped root system I’d ever seen – in the inner courtyard that I bought just a month ago. This leads to another point: Just because a houseplant is new to you does not mean you are hiding happily. Growing season late or in winter, houseplants spent months to grow thick roots. Buy them – especially if they are on sale – but be prepared to prepare them for the coming season.
The thinner the roots, the more gentle you should be. One way of working them loosely with minimum damage is to wash the old soil, preferably with ice, not with ice.
Thin but pointed roots, cut them with scissors. If they are thick and compressed, you can use a knife to draw the edges. For truly cramped roots such as my palms, you can use a sharp knife or pruning saw to lift the bottom inch or so, and then use a three-way soil cultivator to free the roots from each other and old soil.
Roehrich didn’t use anything other than his hands on cordyline. As a rule, it does not remove more than a quarter of the root mass during storage.
A root pruned plant can be brought back to the same pot, but it is better to give it a slightly larger nest – a pot with one or two inches more on top. The larger one carries the risk of root rot due to increased soil moisture. Some pots are placed in a decorative exterior or cache pot, and some have an integrated plate on the bottom, but in any case the new pot must be emptied.
There is a confusing range of soil and compost products for sale, but for most houseplants you want to store the soil (or the pot mix). This is typically a peat-based mixture illuminated with perlite. Some gardeners think the soil is still prone to the pond and they want to add additional perlite. Orchids and succulents need their own special blends.
Keep the plant at the same soil level as before – you are deeper and at risk of crown decay – but for efficient watering the soil line must be under the pot mouth.
When filling fresh soil with another, keep the plant at the right level with one hand. Roehrich then touches the pot several times to get rid of any air pocket. I love that the plant is watered and then reassembled as necessary to encourage the soil to sink.
After the last watering, allow the plant to rest – away from direct sunlight, even if it is a bright plant. Water again when the soil feels dry. Fertilization for a while; wait until you see a new growth that can last for two to four weeks.
Roehrich said that the plant will first put its energy into repairing its roots before turning the energy into initial growth.
After the plant is re-potted, shape the leaves by removing dead, diseased or damaged leaves.
The project creates a lot of confusion. If your luxurious, fully submerged flowerpot is being renovated, it can be served on a light day or indoors in a large plastic tub on the patio or balcony. A storage container will do the trick.
Revitalizing a plant in this way also has a way to restore the spirits of the indoor gardener.